What are citrus scents? A perfumer’s guide to citrus in niche fragrance

If you’ve ever wondered “what are citrus scents?” you’re not alone. It’s one of the most common questions I’m asked as a perfumer. There’s something universally uplifting about citrus fragrances. Whether it’s the sharp zest of lemon, the sophisticated sweetness of bergamot, or the green freshness of lime, citrus has a remarkable ability to make us feel instantly energised and alive. Let me share more about citrus scents and why these beautiful materials hold such a special place in the world of niche fragrance.

What are citrus scents in perfumery?

Citrus scents in perfumery come from the essential oils extracted from the peel of citrus fruits: lemon, bergamot, orange, grapefruit, lime, mandarin, and their many relatives. Unlike heavier fragrance materials that can take hours or even days to fully reveal themselves, citrus oils are wonderfully volatile, meaning they evaporate quickly and create that immediate burst of freshness when you first spray a fragrance.

In my lab, I work with citrus oils that have been cold-pressed from the rinds of these fruits, capturing that fresh-from-the-tree brightness. Each citrus has its own distinct personality:

• Bergamot brings a sophisticated, slightly floral sweetness
• Lemon offers sharp, clean clarity
• Mandarin adds a softer, sweeter touch
• Lime delivers that green, almost herbal edge
• Orange provides warm, juicy sweetness
• Grapefruit brings tangy, slightly bitter freshness

Understanding what citrus scents are helps you appreciate why they’re so beloved across all types of fragrances.

Where do citrus scents sit on the fragrance wheel?

When exploring different scents in perfumery, it’s helpful to understand their place in the fragrance world. On the fragrance wheel, citrus notes sit proudly in the Fresh family, right at the very top. Think of the wheel as a compass: citrus is your North, the starting point for so many olfactory journeys. It’s the gateway between the light, aquatic freshness and the more floral territories that sit beside it.

What I find fascinating is how citrus scents act as a bridge. They play beautifully with their Fresh family neighbours like marine and green notes, but they’re equally at home dancing with florals, aromatics, and even woody notes. This versatility is why you’ll find citrus notes in fragrances across nearly every category, from bright summer Colognes to sophisticated Chypres to warm Oriental blends.

Citrus scents are known for their uplifting properties

Beyond understanding what citrus scents are compositionally, it’s important to know how they affect us. There’s actual science behind why the smell of citrus make us feel good. Studies have shown that citrus fragrances can boost mood, increase alertness, and even reduce stress. When I’m blending with citrus, I’m not just thinking about how it smells, I’m thinking about how it makes people feel.

Citrus aromas are known for being:

• Uplifting and energizing – perfect for that morning boost or midday refresh
• Clean and refreshing – creating an immediate sense of freshness and vitality
• Universally appealing – few people dislike citrus scents, making them wonderfully accessible
• Bright and optimistic – bringing light and positivity to any composition
• Stress-reducing – helping to calm anxiety and promote mental clarity

This is what makes citrus scents so special. They’re not just beautiful to smell, they actively enhance our wellbeing.

Some examples of citrus in real fragrances

To truly understand what citrus scents are, it helps to experience them in context. Here at Wales Perfumery, citrus plays a starring role in several fragrances.

Take Coast, for instance, where I’ve used a blend of lemon, mandarin, bergamot, and lime to capture that first exhilarating breath of Welsh coastal air. Those citrus top notes are crucial, they give you that immediate sense of freshness and vitality, just like standing on a windswept beach with salt spray in the air. This demonstrates what citrus scents are at their most evocative: instant mood transporters.

Then there’s Cornovii from The Celts collection, where I’ve built the fragrance around pomelo, bergamot, and lemon to echo the ancient Cornish tribe’s Mediterranean trading connections. The citrus here isn’t just decorative, it tells a story of sun-drenched shores and maritime commerce, bringing historical narrative to life through scent.

Even in our home fragrance collection, citrus scents take center stage in Citrws, our signature citrus blend that combines bright lemongrass and bergamot with warming spices. It’s designed to bring that same uplifting, energising quality into your living spaces, perfect for mornings when you need a gentle wake-up call or afternoons when you want to refresh your environment.

The challenges of using citrus in perfumery

Here’s something most people don’t realise about citrus notes: they’re both the easiest and the hardest materials to work with. Easy because citrus is so immediately beautiful and recognisable. Hard because it’s so fleeting, those top notes evaporate quickly, which means I need to think carefully about how to support them and what story I want to tell as they fade.

I often use what we call “fixatives” to help extend the life of the citrus notes, or I’ll pair them with materials that echo their brightness in different ways. For example, certain woody notes like cedar can have a subtle lemon-like quality that extends that fresh feeling long after the initial citrus burst has faded.

When to wear citrus perfume?

Now that you understand what citrus scents are, you might wonder when to wear them. The answer? Almost anytime! If you’ve never explored citrus fragrances beyond basic cologne, you’re in for a wonderful discovery. Modern niche perfumery has elevated citrus from simple refreshment to sophisticated art. Look for fragrances that layer citrus scents with unexpected partners: woods, spices, florals, even gourmand notes.

And remember, citrus scents aren’t just for summer. I wear citrus year-round because that burst of brightness is just as welcome on a grey winter morning as it is on a sunny summer afternoon. Whether you need an energising start to your day, a refreshing pick-me-up, or simply want to feel optimistic and alive, citrus scents deliver.

If you’re feeling inspired to experiment with citrus materials yourself, why not create your own fragrance? Our online fragrance creation tool features a wonderful selection of citrussy top notes including bergamot, lemon, lime, and mandarin. You can explore how different citrus materials work together and with other fragrance families to create something uniquely yours.

My final thoughts on citrus scents

Understanding what citrus scents are opens up a whole new appreciation for these beautiful, versatile materials. They’re more than just “fresh”, they’re complex, mood-enhancing, and endlessly adaptable. From the sophisticated floral undertones of bergamot to the sharp clarity of lemon, citrus scents offer something for everyone.

Next time you smell a fragrance and wonder what creates that immediate burst of joy and energy, you’ll know the answer: it’s the magical world of citrus scents at work.

Happy exploring, and may your days be as bright as bergamot!

Enjoy learning about fragrance, and knowing what happens behind the scenes here at Wales Perfumery? Come and find me on Instagram or Facebook.

If you’d like to know when I publish a new blog post – sign up below for my newsletter.